A guide to sulguni — Georgia's tangy, elastic brined cheese. How it's made, why it's called "Georgian mozzarella," and the dishes that use it.
Sulguni is one of the great cheeses of Georgia (the country) — a tangy, salty, elastic brined cheese that's central to Georgian cuisine. Sometimes called "Georgian mozzarella," it's the melting heart of beloved dishes like khachapuri and a delicious discovery for anyone exploring the cheeses of the Caucasus.
What Sulguni Is
Sulguni is a brined cheese from the Samegrelo region of western Georgia, made from cow's or buffalo milk (or a blend). It's a pasta filata-style cheese, made by curdling milk, then heating and kneading the curd until elastic — much like mozzarella — before shaping it into discs and curing it in brine. This stretching gives it a layered, supple texture, while the brine gives it a salty tang.
Why "Georgian Mozzarella"?
Sulguni earns the "Georgian mozzarella" nickname because, like mozzarella, it's a stretched-curd cheese with an elastic, layered texture and excellent melting qualities. Fresh sulguni is springy and mild-to-tangy, and it melts into stretchy strings when heated, just like mozzarella. The comparison helps newcomers understand its texture, though sulguni is typically saltier and tangier from its brining.
Flavor and Texture
Sulguni is firm yet supple and elastic, with a moist, layered interior, pale and smooth. The flavor is salty, tangy, and savory, with a milky richness — fresh sulguni is bright and clean, while smoked versions (popular in Georgia) add a warm, woody flavor. Its springy texture and good melt are central to its appeal, and its saltiness makes it satisfying both fresh and cooked.
Classic Georgian Dishes
Sulguni is essential to Georgian cuisine, most famously in khachapuri, the iconic cheese-filled bread. In the boat-shaped Adjarian khachapuri, melted sulguni (often mixed with another cheese) fills a bread boat topped with an egg and butter. Sulguni also stars in elarji (a cornmeal-and-cheese dish), fried sulguni, and various pastries and breads. Its melting, stretchy quality makes it perfect for these warm, cheesy dishes.
How to Use Sulguni
Fresh sulguni can be eaten as a table cheese, sliced with bread and vegetables, or fried until golden. Its real magic is in melting: into khachapuri and other breads, over cornmeal dishes, or anywhere you'd want a tangy, stretchy melting cheese. Smoked sulguni adds extra flavor to cooked dishes and is also good for snacking. It can substitute for mozzarella when you want more tang and salt.
Pairings
Sulguni pairs with Georgian wines, including the distinctive amber (qvevri) wines, as well as with fresh bread, herbs, tomatoes, and vegetables. It fits naturally into the hearty, flavorful traditions of Georgian and Caucasian cooking.
Buying and Storing
Sulguni is sold fresh or smoked at Eastern European, Caucasian, and specialty markets. Keep fresh sulguni refrigerated, ideally in brine or wrapped, and use within a week or so; smoked versions keep a little longer. Bring it to room temperature before serving fresh, or use it straight from the fridge for melting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is sulguni like mozzarella?
Yes, it's a stretched-curd brined cheese with an elastic texture and good melt, earning it the nickname "Georgian mozzarella," though it's saltier and tangier.
What dishes use sulguni?
Most famously khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread), as well as elarji, fried sulguni, and various pastries.
What does sulguni taste like?
Salty, tangy, and savory with a milky richness; smoked versions add a warm, woody flavor.