A guide to Livarot — Normandy's pungent washed-rind cheese, nicknamed "the Colonel." Why it's wrapped in reed bands and how it tastes.
Livarot is one of Normandy's great washed-rind cheeses — pungent, savory, and instantly recognizable by the bands of reed wrapped around its middle. Nicknamed "the Colonel" for those stripes, it's a bold, characterful cheese for lovers of strong, traditional French cheese.
What Livarot Is
Livarot is a Protected Designation of Origin (AOP) soft, washed-rind cow's-milk cheese from the town of Livarot in Normandy, northwestern France. It's one of the region's trio of famous cheeses, alongside Camembert and Pont-l'Évêque, and one of its oldest, with roots going back centuries. It's a round cheese with a glossy orange-brown washed rind and a soft, supple interior.
Why "The Colonel"?
Livarot's nickname, "the Colonel" (le Colonel), comes from the bands traditionally wrapped around the cheese. Strips of reed (historically laîche, a marsh sedge) are wrapped around the cheese's circumference — usually five of them — resembling the stripes on a French colonel's uniform sleeve. These bands also help the soft cheese hold its shape during aging. The stripes are the cheese's signature and the source of its military nickname.
The Washed Rind
Livarot's rind is washed repeatedly during aging with brine (sometimes tinted with annatto), encouraging bacteria that develop its glossy orange-brown crust and powerful, savory aroma. This rind washing gives Livarot its pungency — earthy, barnyard, and assertive. Like other washed-rind cheeses, it smells considerably stronger than it tastes. The rind is edible, though intensely flavored.
Flavor and Texture
Beneath the rind, Livarot has a soft, supple, springy paste, pale yellow, that becomes creamier as it ripens. The flavor is rich, savory, and tangy, with a pronounced pungency, meaty depth, and earthy, spicy notes. It's one of the stronger Normandy cheeses — bolder than Pont-l'Évêque — with a powerful aroma and a robust, lingering flavor. Lovers of strong cheese prize its intensity.
How to Serve Livarot
Serve Livarot at room temperature, when its paste softens and its flavor blooms, on a cheese board with crusty bread for the brave. As a Normandy cheese, it pairs beautifully with the region's cider and Calvados, whose apple character balances the cheese's pungency. It can also be melted into hearty dishes. Keep it well wrapped to protect the rest of your fridge.
Pairings
Livarot pairs traditionally with Normandy cider and Calvados, as well as with robust red wines and aromatic whites. On the plate, apples, crusty bread, and walnuts complement its powerful, savory flavor.
Buying and Storing
Livarot is sold as a round wrapped in its characteristic reed bands. Choose a piece that's supple and aromatic but not overly ammoniated. Keep it tightly wrapped, ideally in a container, in the fridge, and bring it to room temperature before serving. Eat it within days of ripeness.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Livarot called "the Colonel"?
The reed bands wrapped around the cheese resemble the stripes on a French colonel's uniform sleeve.
Does Livarot taste as strong as it smells?
It's a genuinely bold, pungent cheese, but as with other washed-rind cheeses, the flavor is somewhat gentler than the powerful aroma.
What do you drink with Livarot?
Traditionally Normandy cider and Calvados, whose apple character balances the cheese's pungency.