A guide to Époisses — the pungent, washed-rind French cheese washed in brandy. Its history, flavor, and how to serve this legendary cheese.
Époisses is one of the most gloriously pungent cheeses in the world — a soft, washed-rind Burgundian classic so aromatic that legend (and many a joke) claims it's banned on French public transport. For lovers of strong cheese, it's a near-religious experience: spoonably soft, deeply savory, and unforgettable.
What Époisses Is
Époisses de Bourgogne is a Protected Designation of Origin (AOP) soft cow's-milk cheese from the village of Époisses in Burgundy, France. It dates back centuries and was reportedly a favorite of Napoleon. Nearly lost in the 20th century, it was revived by dedicated producers and is now one of France's most celebrated washed-rind cheeses. It's sold in its own small round wooden box, which supports the oozing cheese.
Washed in Brandy
Époisses gets its character from being washed repeatedly during aging with marc de Bourgogne, a pomace brandy from the region. These washings encourage the growth of bacteria that create its sticky, glistening orange-red rind and its powerful aroma. The brandy washing is the signature of the cheese and contributes to its distinctive savory depth.
Flavor and Texture
When ripe, Époisses is extraordinarily soft — almost liquid at the center — and is often eaten with a spoon. The aroma is intense, pungent, and barnyard-like, but the flavor, while bold, is rich, savory, and surprisingly balanced: meaty, tangy, and creamy, with a long, complex finish. The orange rind is edible and carries much of the flavor, though some find it very strong.
How to Serve Époisses
Serve Époisses at room temperature, when it's at its softest and most aromatic. Scoop it onto crusty baguette or rustic bread, or serve it whole in its box for guests to spoon out. It's a star of the cheese board for those who love strong cheese, and it can also be baked, like a more intense version of baked Camembert. A little goes a long way.
Pairings
The classic pairing is Époisses with Burgundy wine — both red and white — reflecting its home region, as well as with the marc de Bourgogne used to wash it. It also stands up to robust reds and even Champagne, whose acidity cuts the richness. Crusty bread is essential.
Buying and Storing
Buy Époisses in its wooden box, which holds the soft cheese together, and choose one that's ripe but not collapsing if you want to eat it soon. Keep it well wrapped and ideally in a sealed container in the fridge to contain the aroma, and bring it to room temperature before serving. Eat it within days of ripeness.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Époisses so smelly?
It's washed repeatedly with marc de Bourgogne brandy during aging, encouraging bacteria that produce its sticky orange rind and intense aroma.
Can you eat the rind of Époisses?
Yes, the orange washed rind is edible and full of flavor, though it's very strong; some prefer to scoop just the soft interior.
How do you eat Époisses?
At room temperature, often with a spoon, scooped onto crusty bread, and paired with Burgundy wine.