Leipäjuusto: Finnish Bread Cheese and Its Wisconsin Cousin

The name means "bread cheese," and in Wisconsin, where it is made from cow's milk, it is sold as bread cheese or juustoleipä.

It is mild, a little salty and chewy, and it squeaks against your teeth when cold. Heat softens it, but it keeps its shape, which is why it can go in a hot pan.

Leipäjuusto at a glance

Here is leipäjuusto at a glance, drawn from the Wikipedia entry on bread cheese and Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin.

What leipäjuusto is and what it is called

Leipäjuusto is a traditional Finnish cheese called leipäjuusto mainly in Ostrobothnia and Lapland and juustoleipä in Kainuu, according to Wikipedia. It is traditionally made from cow's colostrum, the first milk after calving. Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin says it originated in northern Scandinavia and was traditionally made with reindeer milk, and that Wisconsin cheesemakers adapted it using cow's milk.

Historically the cheese was dried, and then could be stored for up to several years, per Wikipedia. Today it is a fresh cheese you refrigerate and eat within weeks.

How leipäjuusto is made

Leipäjuusto is made by setting milk into curd, forming a disc about 2 to 3 centimeters thick, and then baking, grilling or flaming the surface, per Wikipedia. The browning step is not decoration. It firms the cheese, adds caramelized flavor and gives it the elastic, chewy texture, as the Cheese Scientist explains.

The Wisconsin version follows the same plan with different shapes. Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin says the curds are pressed into loaf-shaped blocks and then toasted, and the golden crust forms as sugars caramelize. Temperatures and times vary by maker and are not given here.

Why leipäjuusto squeaks

Leipäjuusto squeaks because of its protein structure: lots of casein, retained moisture that lets the protein slide against your teeth, and a chewy, elastic texture from baking, per the Cheese Scientist. Cheese curds squeak for a similar reason, as the cheese curds and poutine page explains. Cold, fresh cheese squeaks most; warm it and the squeak fades.

Leipäjuusto flavor and texture

Leipäjuusto tastes mild and slightly sweet, and when warmed it turns buttery with hints of caramel from the golden crust. In the Wisconsin version Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin describes a mild, salty flavor and chewy texture. It is not a strong or aged cheese. Its pleasure is the warm, soft interior against the toasted surface.

How to serve leipäjuusto with cloudberry jam and coffee

Serve leipäjuusto warm, with cloudberry jam or coffee. The classic Finnish plate is diamond-shaped pieces, roughly 5 to 7 centimeters long, with cloudberry jelly, per Wikipedia. Cloudberries are a tart Arctic berry, so the jam cuts through the mild cheese. For the coffee version, pieces go into a cup with hot coffee poured over, which is why the Swedish name is kaffeost, "coffee cheese."

To warm it at home, a skillet works: the Cheese Scientist suggests 2 to 3 minutes per side. Use a non-stick pan over medium heat and do not add oil, since the cheese has enough fat of its own. Other jams, honey and berries work if you cannot find cloudberry; the cheese and jam guide and the coffee and cheese page cover the ideas.

How to cook with leipäjuusto

Cook with leipäjuusto the way you would halloumi, because it softens but does not melt. Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin lists grilling, pan-sauteing, baking, microwaving, mixing cubes into breakfast potatoes and dipping it in morning coffee. Drinks it suggests: crisp lagers, cold pilsners, and sweeter whites such as Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris and Viognier.

How to buy leipäjuusto in the US

Buying leipäjuusto in the US usually means buying Wisconsin-made bread cheese, which is sold in many supermarkets and specialty shops under "bread cheese" or "juustoleipa." Imported Finnish discs turn up at Nordic markets and online. Look for a golden-brown top with dark spots, and refrigerate it. Warm it before eating for the best texture.

What most leipäjuusto advice gets wrong

Most leipäjuusto advice calls it a Finnish halloumi or a dessert cheese, and both miss something.

Leipäjuusto is not just a dessert

Leipäjuusto is not just a dessert cheese: it is also a snack, a coffee companion and, in Wisconsin, a cubed cheese for breakfast potatoes.

Warm cheese does not squeak

Warm leipäjuusto does not squeak, so if you want the squeak, eat a cold piece first and then warm the rest.

Leipäjuusto is not Wisconsin juustoleipä's twin

Leipäjuusto is not exactly the same as Wisconsin juustoleipä: the Finnish cheese is a thin baked disc made traditionally from colostrum, the Wisconsin one a pressed loaf made from cow's milk.

Leipäjuusto substitutes

The best leipäjuusto substitute is halloumi, because both squeak and hold their shape when heated; the halloumi guide covers it, and halloumi vs paneer compares the family. Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin also names paneer, and the paneer page shows how it behaves. Halloumi is saltier, so skip added salt.

Questions about leipäjuusto

These are the questions about leipäjuusto that come up most.

Why is leipäjuusto called bread cheese?

Leipäjuusto is called bread cheese because "leipäjuusto" means exactly that in Finnish, and the baked, spotted surface looks like toasted bread.

Does leipäjuusto melt?

Leipäjuusto softens but does not melt, per Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin, so it can be pan-fried or grilled like halloumi.

Is leipäjuusto the same as juustoleipä?

Leipäjuusto and juustoleipä are two names for the same cheese: Wikipedia says leipäjuusto is used mainly in Ostrobothnia and Lapland and juustoleipä in Kainuu.

What do you eat leipäjuusto with?

You eat leipäjuusto warm with cloudberry jam, or with hot coffee poured over it.

Where does leipäjuusto come from?

Leipäjuusto comes from Finland, from Southern Ostrobothnia, northern Finland and Kainuu.

Your first leipäjuusto

For your first leipäjuusto, buy a Wisconsin bread cheese or a Finnish disc, warm a wedge in a dry skillet for 2 to 3 minutes per side and top it with jam. Taste a cold piece first to hear the squeak.