A guide to the cheeses of the Auvergne — Saint-Nectaire, Cantal, Bleu d'Auvergne, Fourme d'Ambert, and Salers. France's volcanic cheese country.
The Auvergne, in the volcanic heart of central France, is one of the country's richest cheese regions — home to ancient pressed cheeses and a famous family of blues. Rustic, hearty, and deeply tied to its mountain pastures, Auvergne cheese is a treasure of French gastronomy. Here's a guide.
Volcanic Cheese Country
The Auvergne is a region of extinct volcanoes, high plateaus, and lush mountain pastures, ideal for cattle grazing. This terroir gives Auvergne cheeses their earthy, grassy, savory character. The region boasts an unusually high number of AOP cheeses — five great ones in particular — making it one of France's most important cheese areas, with traditions stretching back many centuries.
Saint-Nectaire: The Earthy Classic
Saint-Nectaire is one of the Auvergne's stars — a semi-soft cow's-milk cheese with a thick, mottled rind and a rich, earthy, mushroomy, nutty flavor. Farmhouse (fermier) versions, aged on rye straw, are especially complex. It's a comforting, characterful cheese, lovely on a board or melted over potatoes.
Cantal and Salers: Ancient Pressed Cheeses
Cantal is one of France's oldest cheeses, a large, firm, cheddar-like cheese made in three ages from young and mild to aged and sharp. Salers is a closely related cheese, made only in the grazing season from raw milk of cows on mountain pastures, and is prized for its robust, complex flavor. These pressed cheeses are hearty and versatile, with deep historical roots.
The Blues: Bleu d'Auvergne and Fourme d'Ambert
The Auvergne is famous for blue cheese. Bleu d'Auvergne is a moist, creamy, robust cow's-milk blue with a strong, tangy flavor. Fourme d'Ambert, made in tall cylinders, is one of France's mildest and creamiest blues, with a gentle, balanced flavor. Together they represent the region's celebrated blue-cheese tradition, from bold to mellow.
A Cluster of AOP Cheeses
Few regions can match the Auvergne's concentration of protected cheeses: Saint-Nectaire, Cantal, Salers, Bleu d'Auvergne, and Fourme d'Ambert all carry AOP status. This cluster reflects the region's exceptional dairy heritage and its mountain pastures, and gives visitors and cheese lovers a wonderful range to explore.
How to Enjoy Auvergne Cheese
An Auvergne cheese board can span the region's styles: earthy Saint-Nectaire, a wedge of aged Cantal or Salers, and both a bold Bleu d'Auvergne and a mild Fourme d'Ambert. Serve with crusty bread, walnuts, and fruit, and pair with the region's wines or a glass of something sweet for the blues. These are rustic, satisfying cheeses.
Pairings
Auvergne cheeses pair with the region's wines and light reds, with sweet wines for the blues, and with cider. On the plate, walnuts, apples, pears, honey, and crusty bread complement their earthy and tangy flavors.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is the Auvergne known for cheese?
Its volcanic terroir, high plateaus, and lush mountain pastures produce excellent milk, and the region has an unusually high number of AOP cheeses.
What are the five famous Auvergne AOP cheeses?
Saint-Nectaire, Cantal, Salers, Bleu d'Auvergne, and Fourme d'Ambert.
Which Auvergne blue is mildest?
Fourme d'Ambert, made in tall cylinders, is one of France's mildest and creamiest blue cheeses.