A guide to Appenzeller — Switzerland's pungent, herb-washed Alpine cheese. Its secret brine, bold flavor, and how to enjoy it.
Appenzeller is one of Switzerland's most flavorful cheeses — a firm, tangy, aromatic Alpine cheese washed during aging with a secret herbal brine. Bolder and spicier than Gruyère or Emmental, it's a cheese with real attitude and a closely guarded recipe.
What Appenzeller Is
Appenzeller is a cow's-milk cheese from the Appenzell region of northeastern Switzerland, where it has been made for centuries. It's a firm, cooked-curd Alpine cheese, similar in family to Gruyère, but distinguished by the way it's treated during aging. Made in wheels and matured for months, it ranges from relatively mild to powerfully pungent depending on how long it's aged.
The Secret Brine
Appenzeller's defining feature is the Sulz — a herbal brine used to wash the rind during aging. This mixture traditionally includes white wine or cider, salt, and a blend of herbs and spices, and its exact recipe is a closely guarded secret, said to be known only to a handful of people. The rind washing encourages flavor development and gives the cheese its distinctive aromatic, spicy, savory character.
Flavor and Texture
Appenzeller is firm and dense, with a pale gold paste dotted with small holes and a thin, washed, golden-brown rind. The flavor is bold, tangy, fruity, and savory, with a spicy, herbal aroma and a piquant depth that intensifies with age. It's noticeably stronger and more aromatic than milder Alpine cheeses, making it a favorite for those who like flavor with a kick.
Aging and Labels
Appenzeller is sold at different strengths, often indicated by label color: a milder classic version aged a few months, a stronger surchoix aged longer, and the most intense extra aged the longest. The older and more intensely washed the cheese, the spicier and more pungent it becomes. There's also a black-label version that is the most powerful of all.
How to Use Appenzeller
Appenzeller melts beautifully and adds bold flavor to cooking — excellent in fondue, gratins, savory tarts, and on burgers, where its tang and spice cut through. Sliced, it's a flavorful sandwich and snacking cheese, and on a board it pairs well with bread, fruit, and cured meats. Its strong character makes it a cheese that stands up to robust dishes.
Pairings
Appenzeller pairs with crisp Swiss white wines, light reds, and beer, as well as with the cider and white wine echoed in its brine. On the plate, it goes with crusty bread, apples, pears, nuts, and cured meats.
Buying and Storing
Look for genuine Swiss Appenzeller, and check the strength if you have a preference — milder for newcomers, stronger for bold tastes. Store it wrapped in wax paper in the fridge, where this firm cheese keeps well for weeks. Bring it to room temperature before serving.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Appenzeller special?
Its rind is washed during aging with a secret herbal brine, giving it a bold, spicy, aromatic flavor distinct from other Alpine cheeses.
Is Appenzeller a strong cheese?
It ranges from relatively mild to very pungent depending on age, with the longest-aged versions being notably spicy and aromatic.
Is Appenzeller good for melting?
Yes. It melts well and adds bold flavor to fondue, gratins, and other cooked dishes.