How to make a classic cheese soufflé — the technique behind its dramatic rise, the best cheeses to use, and tips to keep it from collapsing.
A cheese soufflé is one of the most impressive dishes in the French kitchen — light, airy, dramatically risen, and richly cheesy. It has a fearsome reputation, but with the right technique it's very achievable. Here's how to make a cheese soufflé that rises tall and proud.
How a Soufflé Works
A soufflé rises because of air. Whipped egg whites are folded into a flavored base, and when baked, the air bubbles in the whites expand with heat and the steam, puffing the soufflé dramatically upward. The structure sets in the oven, holding the rise — at least until it cools, when it inevitably deflates a little. Understanding that the egg whites do the lifting is the key to success.
The Base
A cheese soufflé starts with a thick, flavorful base — essentially a cheese-enriched béchamel. Make a roux of butter and flour, whisk in warm milk to make a thick white sauce, then stir in egg yolks and plenty of grated flavorful cheese, along with seasoning. The base should be well-seasoned and quite thick, since the airy egg whites will lighten it considerably. Let it cool slightly before folding in the whites.
Choosing the Cheese
Use a flavorful, well-melting cheese so the soufflé tastes distinctly cheesy. Gruyère is the classic choice, prized for its nutty depth and smooth melt; aged cheddar, Comté, or a mix work well too, and a little Parmesan adds savory punch. Because the soufflé is light, the cheese needs to be assertive enough to carry the flavor.
Whipping and Folding the Whites
Whip the egg whites to stiff but not dry peaks — a pinch of cream of tartar helps stabilize them. The folding is crucial: stir a spoonful of whites into the base first to loosen it, then gently fold in the rest with a spatula, using a light hand to keep as much air as possible. Overmixing deflates the whites and ruins the rise. Stop as soon as no white streaks remain.
Baking for the Best Rise
Butter the soufflé dish well and coat it with grated cheese or breadcrumbs, which gives the batter something to climb. Fill the dish, run a thumb around the inside rim (this helps it rise straight up with a "top hat"), and bake in a hot oven without opening the door — a sudden draft or temperature drop can collapse it. Bake until puffed, golden, and just set with a slight wobble.
Serving and Avoiding Collapse
A soufflé waits for no one — serve it immediately, straight from the oven, before it deflates. Some deflation is normal and unavoidable; the goal is to get it to the table while still tall. Don't open the oven during baking, don't overmix, and have your guests ready. A slightly soft, creamy center is desirable, not a fault.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did my soufflé collapse?
Some deflation is normal as it cools. Premature collapse usually comes from overmixing the whites, opening the oven during baking, or underbaking.
What's the best cheese for a cheese soufflé?
Gruyère is the classic, for its nutty flavor and smooth melt, often with a little Parmesan; aged cheddar or Comté also work well.
How do I get a good rise?
Whip the whites to stiff peaks, fold gently to keep the air, prepare the dish with butter and cheese, and bake in a hot oven without opening the door.