How to make gougères — the light, airy French cheese puffs made from choux pastry. The technique, the best cheeses, and tips for a perfect rise.
Gougères are one of the most elegant yet achievable French nibbles — light, airy, golden puffs of cheese-laced choux pastry, crisp outside and hollow within. Served warm with drinks, they're a Burgundian classic and a wonderful party appetizer. Here's how to make them.
What Gougères Are
Gougères are savory choux pastry puffs flavored with cheese. They're made from the same dough as cream puffs and éclairs — pâte à choux — but instead of being filled with sweet cream, the dough has grated cheese mixed in, and the puffs are eaten as a savory bite. Originating in Burgundy, they're traditionally served as an aperitif snack, often with a glass of the region's wine.
Choosing the Cheese
Gruyère is the classic cheese for gougères, melting into the dough with nutty, savory flavor. Comté, Emmental, or a sharp aged cheese also work well, and a little Parmesan adds extra savor. Grate the cheese finely so it incorporates evenly into the dough. Use a flavorful, well-aged cheese, since it needs to carry the flavor of the otherwise plain choux.
Making the Choux Pastry
Choux pastry is simpler than it sounds. Bring water (or milk), butter, and salt to a boil, then add flour all at once and stir vigorously over the heat until the dough forms a smooth ball and pulls away from the pan, drying it slightly. Off the heat, beat in eggs one at a time until the dough is smooth, glossy, and falls in a thick ribbon. Finally, stir in the grated cheese and a little seasoning (pepper, nutmeg, or mustard powder).
The Science of the Puff
Choux rises dramatically because of steam. The high moisture in the dough turns to steam in the hot oven, puffing the pastry up and out while the eggs and flour set the structure, leaving a hollow, airy interior. Getting the dough's consistency right (not too wet, not too dry) and baking in a hot oven are key to a good rise. Don't open the oven early, or the puffs can collapse.
Piping and Baking
Pipe or spoon small mounds of dough onto a lined baking sheet, spaced apart to allow for expansion. Brush the tops with a little beaten egg for shine, and you can sprinkle extra cheese on top. Bake in a hot oven until puffed, deep golden, and crisp — they need to be well-baked and dried out so they hold their shape and don't deflate. Resist opening the oven door during baking.
Serving Gougères
Gougères are best served warm from the oven, when they're at their crispest and most flavorful, as an aperitif snack with a glass of wine — Champagne, white Burgundy, or a light red are classic. They can also be split and filled with savory mousses or cheese for a fancier canapé. They're best fresh, though they can be reheated briefly to re-crisp.
Frequently Asked Questions
What cheese is used in gougères?
Gruyère is the classic, with Comté, Emmental, or aged cheese as alternatives, often with a little Parmesan; grate it finely.
Why did my gougères collapse?
Usually from underbaking (they need to be dried out and crisp) or opening the oven door too early. Bake until deep golden and firm.
Can gougères be made ahead?
They're best fresh and warm, but can be reheated briefly to re-crisp, and the unbaked piped dough can be frozen and baked from frozen.